Smart Lighting Installation
Approaches to Smart Lighting
Smart Switches and Dimmers
Replace existing wall switches with Wi-Fi-enabled smart versions. The smart switch controls the existing light fitting and bulbs — no special bulbs needed.
Key consideration: neutral wire. Most smart switches require a neutral wire at the switch. UK lighting circuits — particularly older loop-in wiring — often do not have a neutral at the switch.
Check for neutral wire before quoting:
- Modern wiring with radial circuits or newer junction-box systems may have a neutral at the switch
- Older loop-in wiring at the ceiling rose typically has no neutral at the switch
- If no neutral is available: (a) run a neutral wire to the switch — additional electrical work; (b) use a no-neutral smart switch (e.g. Shelly 1L — works without neutral but may require a calibration load at the fitting); (c) use smart bulbs instead
Brands Wilsons installs:
- Shelly (Shelly 1, Shelly 1PM, Shelly Dimmer): Retrofit modules that fit behind the existing switch — Wi-Fi, local and cloud control, Home Assistant compatible
- Lutron Caséta: Proprietary bridge required; reliable and lag-free
- TP-Link Kasa: Simple Wi-Fi switches; Alexa and Google compatible
Smart Bulb Systems (Philips Hue)
Replace existing bulbs with Zigbee-based smart bulbs, controlled via a Philips Hue Bridge connected to the router.
Key consideration: The wall switch must remain permanently on — if the switch cuts power, the bulb loses network connectivity. Use a Hue Dimmer Switch (battery-powered, wireless) in place of the wall switch if the customer wants physical control without cutting power.
Shelly Retrofit Module Installation
Shelly modules fit behind the existing switch in the back box. The existing switch becomes the physical trigger; Shelly handles the Wi-Fi control.
Wiring (Shelly 1 — with neutral):
| Shelly terminal | Connection |
|---|---|
| L (input) | Live from the mains supply |
| N | Neutral |
| SW | Switch wire to the existing switch |
| O (output) | Live to the light fitting |
Wiring (Shelly 1L — no neutral required):
- Works on live and load alone
- Maximum load is lower — check compatibility with the fitting
Procedure:
- Isolate the circuit at the consumer unit — prove dead at the switch
- Remove the existing switch faceplate and back plate
- Identify the wiring — live in, switch wire out to ceiling, neutral (if present)
- Connect the Shelly module as per its wiring diagram
- Fit the Shelly in the back box (a deeper box may be needed if space is tight)
- Refit the existing switch faceplate
- Restore power and configure via the Shelly app:
- Connect Shelly to the customer's Wi-Fi
- Set the switch type (momentary, toggle)
- Test local control via app and physical switch
Smart Dimmer Installation
Additional considerations for dimmers:
- Dimmer compatibility: Confirm the light fitting and bulbs are dimmable — LED bulbs must be rated for dimmer use. Check the dimmer's minimum load against the bulb wattage.
- Calibration: Many smart dimmers require a calibration process after installation to set the correct dimming range for the connected load.
Philips Hue System Installation
Equipment needed
- Philips Hue Bridge (connected to the router via ethernet)
- Hue bulbs for each fitting
- Hue Dimmer Switch or Tap (optional — for physical control without cutting mains power)
Procedure
- Connect the Hue Bridge to the router via ethernet and power it on
- Download the Philips Hue app on the customer's phone
- Replace existing bulbs with Hue bulbs (wall switch remains permanently on)
- Add rooms and bulbs to the app — bulbs are discovered automatically via the Bridge
- Configure scenes, schedules, and routines as required by the customer
- If using a Hue Dimmer Switch: pair the dimmer to the bulbs in the app and install adjacent to or over the existing wall switch
- Connect to Amazon Alexa or Google Home if the customer uses voice control (via the Hue skill)
Common Issues
| Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
| Smart switch won't connect to Wi-Fi | Confirm the network broadcasts 2.4GHz; re-enter Wi-Fi credentials in app; move closer to router during setup |
| Switch connects but light doesn't respond | Check wiring (especially switch wire and output terminals); confirm load is within the switch's rated capacity |
| Dimmer flickers | Bulbs not compatible with dimmer; calibrate dimmer; check minimum load specification |
| Hue bulb won't add to app | Confirm switch is on (bulb powered); hold bulb close to Bridge during initial pairing; reset bulb if previously paired elsewhere |
| Physical switch cuts power and bulb goes offline | Wall switch must remain on with smart bulbs — install a Hue Dimmer Switch for physical control |
| Smart switch goes offline after power cut | Most smart switches reconnect automatically — if not, check router is back online and Wi-Fi password hasn't changed |